FAQ's (Frequently Asked Questions)

Question : What is the difference between Hydrogen in pressurized tanks compared to Brown's Gas or egas or hydroxy gas?

Answer : Mr Brown’s invention allows oxygen and hydrogen extracted from ordinary tap water to be used safely for almost any type of burning fuel. He envisages the day when cars, stoves, heating and most of industry can be run on water or the gas extracted from it. He has perfected his invention in a cutting and welding torch, similar to an oxyacetylene torch, which is 30 times cheaper than present torches and burns with a flame seven times hotter. Hydrogen in a pressurized tank is para-hydrogen as Brown's gas a combo of hydrogen and oxygen is ortho-hydrogen, a different property of hydrogen that has a stronger combustion properties, if used right away. On board electrolysis, make the egas as you drive is by far the cleanest fuel on the planet.

: Made plenty of the generators and they work well, but the sludging up does create a serious problem and is a curse. It is obviously iron or steel leached out of the stainless steel and I just can't get around it.Do you have any suggestions to eliminate this ? if so can you tell me how to do it. I have a 30amp speed controller hooked up to the system and man it really produces the E gas! heeps of it. But as the sludge builds up, down goes the efficiency of the unit?

Answer : Yes, there is an answer! I found out about a month ago if you add dummy plates, or neutral plates between the pos. and neg. electrode plates, they absorb voltage. See my attachment. I now use 11 plates. (The most that I can fit into a 4" cylinder. ) Are plate configuration is as follows ?: ( - n n n n + n n n n - ) The water in the cell does not get so hot and the anode red mud/sludge slows way down. You still get some but not like before.

My theory is that 12 volts in electrolysis, is fine for the first 5 minutes, until the water hears up. (1.8 volts) is where the break off point is of no heat exchange. The 9 & 11 plate cell I have now, takes awhile for it to get warm, about 1/2 hour.
One thing thought, if you add the neutral plates (all insulated about 1/8" apart) they don't give off much bubbles, until after they get worked in and all absorbed with hydrogen. (one week)

The sludge is the impurities in the water being oxidized and some iron out of the electrodes, and we have been cooking them. They make steam as well, it burns too!

One thing though your amperage will drop way down. Instead of my usual 1/2 teaspoon of electrolyte, you have to use 3 tablespoon of electrolyte to get back up to 20 amps. 25amps when it heats up after a 1/2 hour of driving in warm climate. In cold climate you make never experience the amps going up. Do you blow 30 amp fuses alot? Are you getting better gas mileage? More horsepower?





Question : I have only one question about the hydrogen booster. Is the device supposed to make your car run completely on water/hydrogen? or on a mix of water/hydrogen and gasoline?

Answer : A mix. . Just a gas mileage saver for now. The same egas if you produce enough of it can run a car purely on water, if you ever make one, don't tell anybody, As soon as the word gets out, the feds will be at your door.

The transition from gas to water will have to be gradual, I would like it to happen over night, and that is what they are afraid of. They are pushing all of us with their gas prices and wars & military bases, all funded by the energy dept. and our tax dollars.

To get enough egas you have to brake the 1825 laws of Faraday (far - a - day -ago) easy today with all the modern electronics, split the water with the right frequency and quaduple the amps with 2 volts and you have it! Many are working on it.

Question : Will I have to mess with my car's oxygen sensors to get better mpg.?

Answer : Most larger motors, have the computers set to full gas guzzle mode. When the Oxygen Sensor (extra pollution device) senses a lean emission, sensing oxygen in the exhaust (lean air/gas mixture) it tells the computer to dump more gas , as if to quench the fire with too much fuel, resulting in an extra smoggy, smelly ride, but powerful and robust. Not needed today in a time of crisis.

Too offset this problem you can install an EIFE, or use a 100k- 50k potentiometer spliced into your MAP or MAF sensor, or both. With 96 and newer cars, you can disconnect the oxy sensor and run a Scangauge on your dash.
EIFE's are $60 from eagle-research.com or do as ozzie and others are doing : http://water4gas.com/demse.htm


Frequently Asked Questions from : Hydrogen-boost.com

11 Answered F.A.Q.'s from : Hydrogen-boost 2008
The Hydrogen Boost system can be installed on aly gasoline or diesel powered vehicle.

With the complete Hydrogen Boost system we have achieved typical increase in mileage of 15-25% on the vehicles we have tested, without the use of driving tips, and well over 50% with the implementation of the driving tips in our manual.

Quote from http://www.hydrogen-boost.com/FAQ.html:

Frequently Asked Questions

I do not intend here to answer every question that is obviously addressed in the main pages of this web site. There are a few questions that I repeatedly get that are answered in the secondary pages of this web site, especially the many newsletter pages, that I will address here for the purpose of saving myself time.

1. What about winter conditions? How do you keep the water from freezing?

2. What about water in the exhaust caused by the hydrogen gas?

3. What about the leaner air/fuel mixture and the possibility of burning valves?

4. Will Hydrogen Boost void my warrantee?

5. Will Hydrogen Boost work on Diesel engines?

6. How much mileage increase can I expect with Hydrogen Boost?

7. Why not have a sight gauge on the side of the hydrogen generator so I can tell when it needs water?

8. Do I need to use special water?

9. Where do I put my Hydrogen Generator if there is no space in the engine compartment?

10. Are there any issues with hydrogen embrittlement?

11. How easy is installation? Do I need a Mechanic?


1. What about winter conditions? How do you keep the water from freezing?

A. Cold Weather solution

Thank you for your interest in Hydrogen-Boost. The system operates especially well in cold weather. The fuel heater and chosen vaporizing systems improve on winter mileage considerably. The 0w30 Amsoil reduces the drag caused by more viscous oils and the XCEL Plus engine treatment causes less drag year round. The driving tips are especially applicable to cold weather, and the recommended tire pressure is especially important in keeping your tires safe from damage caused by under inflation. The electronic control circuit works the same in cold weather as it does in hot weather.

But I am sure you are especially asking about the hydrogen generator, which uses water, which usually turns to ice in cold weather. Well we have that solved too. Our electrolyte doesn't freeze and for cold climates we suggest a coil of soft copper pipe wrapped around our hydrogen generator through which is circulated engine coolant from the heater hose circuit. So the hydrogen generator is heated. It takes about five minutes to warm up to optimum operating temperature.

2. What about water in the exhaust caused by the hydrogen gas?

A. Water in the Exhaust

Hydrogen Boost Newsletter 7-18-01

Two days in a row now I have had questions emailed to me about water in the exhaust caused by the Hydrogen-Boost system so it is time for me to address the question in the form of a report that I can cut and paste when asked again. So here we go.

Octane, a typical gasoline molecule has a chemical formula of C8H18. When combusted in an internal combustion engine the chemical equation is:
C8H18 + 12.5 O2 = 8CO2 + 9H20

As you can see over half of the exhaust gases formed are water molecules (H2O). In a typical vehicle at 60 miles per hour getting 30 mile per gallon the engine is burning up gasoline at the rate of two gallons per hour. Gasoline weighs about 3 kilograms per gallon so that typical vehicle is burning up 6 kilograms of gasoline per hour. If Octane is the typical molecule of gasoline then each 114 grams of octane (molecular weight of octane is 114 grams) produces 162 grams of water (9 times the molecular weight of water, 18 grams). So every hour the typical vehicle produces 8.5 kilograms of water. That equates to 18.75 pounds or 2.3 gallons of water. The exhaust also contains 18.5 kilograms or 40.7 pounds of Carbon Dioxide, every hour of driving, but that is not the focus here. Let’s focus on the 2.3 gallons of water contained in the exhaust of a typical vehicle.
Now if we could somehow decrease the amount of fuel used by 20%, which is no great feat for Hydrogen-Boost, we could eliminate 0.46 gallons or 3.7 pounds or 59 ounces of water every hour from the exhaust. Now if the Hydrogen-Boost system is producing gas at its maximum rate it would inject into the intake 120 liters of gas per hour. When this gas is combusted the water produced weighs 64.3 grams or 2.3 ounces. So if Hydrogen-Boost is saving 20% on the fuel bill it is eliminating 59 ounces of water by injecting 2.3 ounces of water in the form of gas. That is a net reduction of 56.7 ounces of water every hour.
So for those of you that are concerned that the hydrogen gas injected by Hydrogen-Boost will cause all kinds of water in your exhaust, relax. The Hydrogen-Boost system will reduce the amount of water in your exhaust about 25 times as much as it injects. And that is using a very conservative fuel savings figure of only 20%.
Even if Hydrogen-Boost did add water vapor into the exhaust and didn’t give you any savings at all, it would only be an increase of 0.7% of what is already being produced in the engine by the combustion of the gasoline.

3. What about the leaner air/fuel mixture and the possibility of burning valves?

A. Exhaust Gas Temperature, Lean Mixtures, and Burning Valves

Will operating my vehicle at a leaner mixture with Hydrogen-Boost, cause damage to my valves?

With Hydrogen-Boost seeking to run on the leanest air/fuel mixture that has acceptable torque and power, in pursuit of the best possible gas mileage, we have had repeated questions from misinformed customers concerning whether they would burn their valves by running the extra lean mixture.

I am sure the misinformation comes from the aviation field. Being an aviator until last year's near fatal experimental aircraft accident, I know that piston engine aircraft take off and climb at maximum power, and cruise at a leaner mixture, watching the EGT gauge to insure a safe temperature. Of course we all assume that safe temperature means a temperature that doesn't burn the valves.

This information gets us to assume that an electronic fuel injected engine runs at the rich mixture that is cool enough to protect the valves from burning. Most also assume that if we lean out the mixture we will be in danger of burning the valves. A too hot exhaust gas temperature also would indicate a too hot combustion temperature that happens to produce NOx, the oxides of nitrogen that are considered as toxic pollution.

What most of us don't know is that during warm up and acceleration the EFI (electronic fuel injection) engine does indeed run with a rich mixture, but during cruise the engine control unit (ECU) runs in what is called closed loop operation, which targets a 14.7 to 1 air fuel ratio. This ratio is called stoichiometric, meaning that there is a perfect mixture of air and fuel to insure complete combustion. This also happens to be the perfect mixture to get the highest temperature of combustion, and therefore the highest exhaust gas temperature (EGT). Any leaner (more air) mixture will cause a cooler combustion, and any richer (more fuel) mixture will also cause a cooler combustion.

The following quote was obtained from http://www.sdsefi.com/techegt.htm and is chemically accurate:

Some gauge manufacturers say you should tune to achieve maximum or peak EGT for maximum performance. This is incorrect. Peak EGT generally occurs at an AFR of around 14.7- 15.0 to 1 on gasoline. This is far too lean for maximum power and is dangerous under continuous WOT conditions. Many people think that the leaner you go, the higher the EGT gets. This is also incorrect. Peak EGT occurs at stoichiometry- about 15 to 1 for our purposes. If you go richer than 15 to 1, EGT will drop and if you go leaner than 15 to 1 EGT will ALSO drop. It is VERY important to know which side of peak EGT you are on before making adjustments. It is safe to say that peak power will occur at an EGT somewhat colder than peak EGT.

As you can probably figure out by now, leaning the mixture from the target 14.7 to 1 will NOT cause a hotter exhaust nor will it cause you to burn your valves. This is not to say that leaning the ECU's program under all conditions will cause a cooler exhaust. There is one condition that could be hotter and that would be running at WOT (wide open throttle) at 14.7 to 1 instead of the programmed 13 to 1. A continuous running at this condition might indeed burn your valves.

But how often would a mileage conscientious driver equipped with Hydrogen-Boost want to run at WOT for extended periods of time at 14.7 to 1 mixture? First of all a conscientious driver would be following the driving tips in the manual which discourages WOT driving all together, say nothing about an extended WOT operation. Also if a Hydrogen-Boost system is adjusted properly, it will be running at a much higher (leaner) mixture than 14.7 to 1, even at full throttle.

Being a research scientist, I don't like to take anyone's word for anything so I have ordered two EGT gauges, both of which can read the temperatures of two sensors. I will verify all that has been written in this newsletter and will report the results in a later issue.

So to answer the original question:

Will operating my vehicle at a leaner mixture with Hydrogen-Boost, cause damage to my valves? NO.


On June 11th I finally installed one of my EGT gauges. The probe had a rather short lead so I ended up running with the EGT gauge on top of my hood, rubber banded to the windshield wiper. I had to drill and tap a hole for the threaded probe, which worked out fine. It was a little tight for space inside the engine compartment so I used a right angle portable drill and a socket and ratchet on the tap.

Once the probe was warmed up I cruised at a constant speed and throttle setting and dialed in a leaner fuel mixture while watching the gauge. What is claimed above regarding EGT and fuel ratio was indeed verified. At cruise the EGT was about 10 degrees cooler at 13:1 air/fuel ratio than it was at 14.7:1. At 17:1 it was also 10 degrees cooler. At 19:1 it was 20 degrees cooler, and at 21:1 it was 30 degrees cooler. The temperature really had more to do with the throttle setting than anything else. At high throttle settings the EGT was in the 900s, at high cruise in the 800s, at medium cruise in the 700s, at low cruise in the 600s, and at idle in the 500s. With this large range of temperatures the small change due to fuel ratio was insignificant.

One thing that is notable is the fact that any set power output typically produced the same or similar temperatures, regardless of the fuel ratio. Even though the higher fuel ratio caused a lower temperature at a set throttle position, to keep the same power it took a slightly more open throttle, which caused the temperature to rise back to the same reading as the lower ratio and throttle setting that produced the same power. Of course this was not quite true with those full throttle, rich ratio conditions when the EGT is hot but not as hot as it would be at 14.7:1 fuel ratio.

The throttle setting determined more than just the EGT, it determined the amount of temperature drop that was caused by the increasing fuel ratio. At idle there was only a 5-10 degree drop, but at higher throttle settings there was more than a 40 degrees of drop.

What does all this mean in relation to the question that started this discussion? Will operating my vehicle at a leaner mixture with Hydrogen-Boost, cause damage to my valves? To answer that question we would determine the condition that causes the highest EGT. This would be at full throttle and 14.7:1 fuel ratio. Neither a stock vehicle nor a Hydrogen-Boost system equipped vehicle would run at this condition. The stock vehicle would run at 12 or 13 to 1, and a Hydrogen-Boost equipped vehicle would run at the same 12 or 13 to 1, for those using the old electronic control circuit, or 18 or 20 to 1, for those with the new electronic control circuit. Of course any Hydrogen-Boost equipped vehicle would not likely be seen at full throttle for extended periods of time. So to conclude, the EGT that causes valves to burn would never be encountered with a Hydrogen-Boost equipped vehicle.

4. Will Hydrogen Boost void my warrantee?

A. Warrantee issues with Hydrogen Boost

Many have asked whether Hydrogen Boost will void their warrantee. The short answer is NO. The long answer is an explanation of what a warrantee is. It is obvious that you are asking the wrong question. The proper question is, “If I have Hydrogen Boost installed on my vehicle can my manufacturer refuse to pay for fixing my car?” The answer is the same as for anything added to your vehicle. For example if you change your tires to a different brand than what the vehicle came with, can the manufacturer refuse to pay for fire damage under my hood. Well, that would depend on whether the tires caused the fire. If the tire blew out and caused you to run off the road and crash into a tree, leaking gasoline and catching fire, yes the manufacture could say, “No, we are not responsible for that fire damage so we won’t pay. So if something about the Hydrogen Boost system, like improper installation, causes damage to your engine, don’t expect the manufacturer to pay for the damage done. The main thing that could cause damage is dumping a water solution of strong chemicals into your engine. That can not happen with a properly installed Hydrogen Boost system but if you ignore the installation instructions because you are a great experimenter who “knows what he’s doing” then you could cause damage. There is nothing about the Hydrogen Boost system that can cause damage by itself. Only improper installation or use can possibly cause damage that the manufacturer should not pay for because of his warrantee. If you can read and follow instructions, you won’t cause any damage and the manufacturer is bound to repair your vehicle of any damage not caused by you.

RE: The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act Federal law sets forth requirements for warranties and contains a number of provisions to prevent vehicle manufacturers, dealers and others from unjustly denying warranty coverage. With regard to aftermarket parts, warranty coverage cannot be denied simply because such parts are present on the vehicle. The warranty coverage cannot be denied unless the aftermarket part is proven to have caused the malfunction or damage.

Magnuson Moss Warranty Act
US Code - Title 15, Chapter 50, Sections 2301-2312 Legally, a vehicle manufacturer can not void the warranty on a vehicle due to an aftermarket part unless they can prove that the aftermarket part caused or contributed to the failure in the vehicle (per the Magnuson Moss Warranty Act (15 U.S.C. 2302(C)). If your vehicle manufacturer fails to honor the warranty, contact the FTC at (202) 326-3128 or www.ftc.gov .

5. Will Hydrogen Boost work on Diesel engines?


A. Hydrogen-Boost with Diesel Engines

Many have asked if Hydrogen-Boost will work on diesel powered vehicles. The answer is yes. All of the components of the Hydrogen-Boost System will help increase the mileage of diesel powered vehicles. In addition to increase in efficiency, hydrogen has already been proven in tests to help reduce the harmful exhaust emissions.

In spring of 2007 we had our hydrogen generator subjected to dynamometer tests on a John Deer diesel engine by Purdue University. Results are reported in our May 2007 newsletter at http://hydrogen-boost.com/May%202007.html An average increase in work done per gallon of fuel was 15% over the entire operating range. Increases at common operating conditions (throttle settings and RPM) were as high as 30% and at an isolated best case point there was a 60% increase reported. This was on a mechanical injection pump equipped diesel engine. Results on an electronic fuel injected diesel may vary.

Following the Purdue University testing we got report of an independent trucker who had purchased our hydrogen generator. Those results are reported in our June 2007 newsletter at http://hydrogen-boost.com/June%202007.html 20% increase in mileage was initially reported with the hydrogen generator alone, and over 30% total increase was reported when the engine, transmission, and differential treatments were installed. This was on a tractor trailer with a Detroit Diesel engine.

There are now close to a dozen companies in North America that market a hydrogen only device for diesel vehicles that are claimed to achieve 8-15% increase in efficiency at the cost of between $6000 and $15,000. Their devices are advertised to produce only one third to one half as much hydrogen as that produced by the Hydrogen-Boost unit. The "guarantee" offered by these companies is not a money back guarantee but rather an offer to have the equipment removed and payment schedule cancelled, usually after the customer has spent well in excess of the total cost of a complete Hydrogen-Boost system. Reimbursement of the expense to the customer is usually refused by these companies. Also I notice no published documentation of their claimed increases in efficiency. They depend on testimonials of "customers" that believe they are getting results from their devices but without any scientifically controlled experimental data to support their beliefs. An 8-10% increase is impossible to verify without controlled scientific experimentation. It is easy for a customer to believe a perceived improvement when such is not the case. We have not done any experiments on diesel powered vehicles because there are none available to us at a reasonable cost, and we have focused our efforts on the more prominent gasoline powered vehicle.

In January 2006 in Austria we installed part of the Hydrogen Boost system on a diesel powered Ford Fiesta. Even without the XCEL PLUS engine treatment, which I consider a very important part of the system, we achieved a 9% increase in mileage and a 10% reduction in acceleration times (indicating an increase in power, but not necessarily 10%). When the complete is applied I expect more like 15-18% increase in mileage and decrease in acceleration times.

Diesel update: To our surprise we have had excellent reports from our first diesel small vehicle system customers. One purchased a gasoline system and decided to install the hydrogen generator onto his diesel pickup and achieved a 20% increase in mileage, then purchased a complete diesel system and installed the hydrogen generator on his wife’s car who was so impressed with the Hydrogen Boost results on the diesel pickup, she wanted one for her car. Another diesel system customer pulls a huge fifth wheel camper followed by a large boat, total length 60 feet. He has a regular route to camp of 211 miles which normally took 25 gallons of diesel fuel. Since installing the hydrogen Boost diesel system he has done the trip with a heavier load and faster driving with only 20 gallons of fuel. This is a 25% increase in mileage. This customer has also been the first to test the expanded hydrogen gas production capability of the larger diesel hydrogen generator, running the unit at 37.5 amps with a forty amp fuse. Diesel

6. How much mileage increase can I expect with Hydrogen Boost?

A. To get a comprehensive answer, please read our November 2001 newsletter at
http://www.hydrogen-boost.com/november2001.html but to give you an idea of our experience, we have consistently achieved 50% increase in highway mileage and over 100% increase in city mileage when we applied all the components of the system including driving tips. For those who refuse to change their driving habits we can only say that in controlled cruising road tests we have consistently achieved 15-25% increases, and on the dynamometer we have achieved 18-31% increases. For more information on these tests see our newsletter pages at
http://www.hydrogen-boost.com/september%202005.html and

7. Why not have a sight gauge on the side of the hydrogen generator so I can tell when it needs water?

A. For two reasons. First you’d likely never see it. Have you seen where you are going to install the hydrogen generator? In most engine compartment there are very few places to squeeze in the hydrogen generator, and when you get it down into the spot where you can fit it, there is little chance you’ll be able to read a sight gauge on the side of it. Secondly, a sight gauge is just another thing that will break while you’re cramming the hydrogen generator down into that tight spot, and it is just a place that will leak out your electrolyte. You already know when you need water, whenever you are under the hood checking your oil, you need to top off your water level. This only needs to be done every two tanks full of fuel but its better to just do it every time you fill your tank.

8. Do I need to use special water?

A. You need to refrain from using water with minerals in it. Distilled water is best and it’s all around us. You don’t need to go to the store and buy it by the gallon, you can get it for free. It falls out of the sky, you can catch it off your roof, it drips off your air conditioner, it drips of a dehumidifier. In my town we have de-mineralized water in our pipes from the town. That’s what I use. Just don’t use water with minerals in it because the minerals will stay in the hydrogen generator and become mud or mineral deposits. Then you would have to clean out the hydrogen generator more often than the once a year I recommend.

Recently we have been testing the use of household strength Ammonia. This ammonia is a solution made with demineralized or distilled water and ammonia, both of which electrolyze to produce hydrogen. Ammonia actually takes less electrical power. Initial tests have been encouraging and I see no reason yet to use household strength ammonia, which is quite inexpensive.

9. Where do I put my Hydrogen Generator if there is no space in the engine compartment?

A. The typical alternative is under the front fender, in front of the mud-guard. See a picture of an installation under the fender of the Saturn SL1 here and see a video of the filling procedure here.

10. Are there any issues with hydrogen embrittlement?

A. The short answer is NO. The ong answer requires understanding of hydrogen embrittlement. Hydrogen embrittlement occurs when hydrogen is produce in an ionic or atomic state and penetrates the metal before it is joined with another atom of hydrogen to form a diatomic molecule of hydrogen, which takes up more space than the individual hydrogen atoms or ions. This forming of the hydrogen molecule causes stress on the lattice of the metal because it is trying to crowd out the metal atoms. When enough hydrogen molecules (two atoms each) have formed within the lattice structure of the metal they cause the metal’s lattice structure to over-stress and rupture. Hydrogen produced in electrolysis is already mostly diatomic molecules of stable hydrogen (two atoms together) so there is no stress on the metal that it is exposed to thereafter. Brown’s gas (common ducted electrolyzer gases) may contain some small portion of monatomic hydrogen (ionic or atomic) but before it has a chance to embed itself in any metal lattice structure, it is combusted in the combustion chamber of the internal combustion engine to which the Hydrogen Boost system is installed. Normally hydrogen embrittlement is experience in highly charged plasma generation of hydrogen associated with underwater arc welding. Our electrolysis does not have a plasma environment and therefore is not even a threat to our metal container, much less an automobile engine.

11. How easy is installation? Do I need a Mechanic?

A. Ease of installation depends on access to the following: heater hose, fuel line coming to the injector rail, MAF and MAP sensors, fuel pump relay, and oxygen sensors. Even an experienced installer will spend more time finding these items than is typically taken for installation of the equipment. Once a particular model has had a system installed, it is a breeze to do the same model again. That does not mean that an experienced mechanic not familiar with the system will take less time than an experienced installer or even a person who typically doesn’t work on his vehicle. I would say that anyone who can read, look at pictures in a repair manual, and has had experience with simple tasks like changing the spark plugs, and maybe an alternator of starter, can easily install the hydrogen boost system. If you do hire a professional mechanic, don’t hire him by the hour, hire him by the job. Working by the hour always seems to take more time.

Please go and read these FAQ's as well.

Enjoy the learning curve! 7/08

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Hydrogen Garage LLC • California • USA